Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Dear Mom

Dear mom,

Don't get me wrong, you're a wonderful woman whose provided me with endless amounts of love (and food) since I came parading into this world. But, I think it's time to break the news that I'm never coming home from Africa. Don't worry, I have legitimate reasons:

One. I go to school in a mountain. No, really, the University of Cape Town is seated at the foothills of Table Mountain. We are not in Kansas anymore. (And we are definitely not in Providence). Just to give you a glimpse...


Two. On the weekends we go here...


Three. When we're hungry we eat this...


 Love always,
Grace

Okay, we've essentially been living like queens. But the honeymoon phase is over and I'm not as shallow as the above pictures suggested. Living in SA so far has been quite an experience- good and bad. Yes the weather, nightlife, beaches, and food are all amazing and beyond anything I anticipated, but South Africa has an ugly past of racial segregation that still manifests itself in ways I'm unfamiliar with. For example, the beaches. Some beaches, such as Maiden's Cove, will have mostly Black and Coloured South Africans while just beyond its boulders at Camp's Bay or Clifton Beach will be primarily comprised of White South Africans. While University of Cape Town is definitely diverse both in language and skin color, I've noticed students with the same colored skin still congregate together. Then again, can I really pass judgment here when PC is no different? In fact, PC is must more racially homogenized than UCT.

As many of you know, part of the reason I was so attracted to the CIEE Cape Town program was its service-learning component. All of the people I live with are involved with service work that we dedicate 10-15 hours a week on and will eventually create a capstone project on. My friend Mollie and I chose to volunteer at Masiyile High School in Khaletsysha, a township about 30 minutes away. For a few days a week we have the chance to step into a different world and immerse ourselves in an all-Black community that is primarily Xhosa speaking. Our white skin automatically separates us from the students and implies an air of wealth and superiority. It is uncomfortable and has created a lot of emotional and cultural barriers that we will have to overcome. But, I don't think we would have chosen this site if we weren't prepared to deconstruct those barriers and dispel any false perceptions of Americans. Similarly, I am prepared to eliminate any stereotypes I may have had about townships. Most importantly, I hope to gain a new perspective on what is means to be educated, the importance of language, and an altogether re-conceptualization of wealth and what it means to live a full life.

Surprisingly the classrooms are extremely structured (see? stereotype #1) and the respect the students have for the teachers is something American students should work towards emulating. The teachers switch back and forth from english and Xhosa and it's been cool to hear the different clicks. Of course I sound like an absolute idiot when I try to speak it but it's a process, right?

I'll leave you with this very inspiring fact I learned yesterday while working. The matric (pass) rate for Masiyile in 2009 was 31%, in 2010 it was 33% and in 2011 it was 87%. Why? The teachers implemented peer tutoring. Amazing! They are aiming for 90-100% for this year, 2012.

Write soon! (Or, knowing me, in 4 weeks from now)
g

The First Month in a Nutshell

I am officially bad at blogging but blame the mother earth and the high seas: there is a cable that runs under water from the USA to SA that provides the internet. What? Who knew!

Anyways, I'm going to make it a weekly goal to blog so it won't end up like this post. Strap in, I'm about to inundate you with info that you probably will end up skimming over.  (Just kidding, I have more faith in you than that).

(Or do I?)

Here is a brief list of the big headliners:

Langa Township Tour & Mzoli's Meat
Bo Kapp
(21st birthday! I warned you about the narcissism)
Robben Island
Parliament
Lion's Head
High Africa Retreat


 Langa Township Tour was an interesting experience; interesting being a euphemism for one of the most uncomfortable days ever. Don't get me wrong, it was worthwhile and gave me insight into economic apartheid and class stratification in South Africa, but walking through an impoverished neighborhood snapping pictures made us look even more touristy and out of place than we already were. We may as well have been wearing American flag t-shirts. But, like most things I've experienced thus far while in SA, it's not about us. Yes, I felt uncomfortable but the trip exposed me to a world I seldom live in. It also made me re-conceptualize wealth in that I may have more tangible possessions but the people of Langa have a rich sense of culture. 


A few days later we took a tour of Bo Kaap, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Cape Town known for its pastel colored houses. Bo Kaap is also the home of the oldest Mosque in South Africa, Auwal Masjid estbalished in 1704. We also had the opportunity to visit the mosque and go to a Muslim family's home for an authentic Cape Malay cuisine which consisted of samosas, rice and chicken, vegetables, and more.


We also took a tour of Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela and hundreds of other political prisoners were held during Apartheid. Don't get me wrong, this trip was something I had been looking forward too since I sent my application in to study abroad in Cape Town. Unfortunately, the trip was planned the day after my 21st birthday and the ferry ride over was like a scene out of the Perfect Storm. Luckily standing outside of Nelson Mandela's jail cell was an incredibly sobering experience. Pun intended.



Our trip to Parliament was also interesting and I learned that SA is a leading country in representing both genders equally in Parliament. A few weeks ago we hiked Lion's Head (well, a few of us: I had a panic attack and could only make it half way up. Eye rolling is totally appropriate, don't worry). Nonetheless it was a beautiful view and I've make it a personal 'must' to climb it before I leave. Hopefully in a few weeks we'll climb Table Mountain.

Here is a view of the corner of Table Mountain and other mountains that overlook Camp's Bay, half way up Lion's Head:

 And a view of the sunset:




The last "big" thing we've done is High Africa, a weekend retreat in which we reflected upon our weeks so far in South Africa and where we hope the semester will take us. Team building and group bonding ensued and it turned out to be a really relaxing weekend. The first night they had us sit alone in the dark without anyone remotely close to us for 20-25 minutes. After my fears of water animals creeping out of the water to attack me subsided, I allowed myself to fully immerse myself in the nature that surrounded me. I thought a lot about life's purpose and what I am doing. More importantly, I thought about how the decisions I make affect those around me and in what ways I can become a better person. Unfortunately, all of this peaceful self-reflection came to an abrupt halt the next day when we had to do a high-ropes course and I practically defecated in my pants.


I'll leave you with that beautifully-painted picture,
g

(has 'g' caught on yet?)
Home Sweet Home

The 2012 Service-Learners humble abode. To Six Chapel Rd at the bottom of the UCT campus, I hope we leave you as pretty as we found you.

The living situation at Six Chapel Rd. has been pretty wonderful. There are 14 of us living in 'big chapel" and 7 others living in "small chapel", the smaller house on the same property. We're about a 5 minute walk from campus and the Jammie (campus shuttle) stop is right across the street.

Monday, February 6, 2012

Five Reasons I'm Never Leaving Cape Town

(Not listed in order of importance)

1) Mullets are in
2) People wear shirts with the following logos: "HUNGOVER: Another way to say you kicked ass last night". But it's acceptable because everyone is beautiful
3) No one wears shoes in the grocery store
4) Whitney Huston and NSync are still played at bars
5) Froyo is excellent

Okay, so clearly blogging is not my forte. Tomorrow will mark the second week anniversary of me and Cape Town's relationship. It's been a special journey, with inevitable ups and downs. I'll offer you a brief synopsis as internet is difficult to acquire and two weeks worth of excursions could go on for pages.

Let's begin: the flight was good, not too much turbulence and the food was above par. The chicken was suspect and sported an off-green color (kind of like my face) but it's all good.

Arrive in Cape Town: we stayed at this adorable little hotel, Little Scotia, a few streets over from where I live now. Although the weather was beautiful and the food was incredible, I found myself super uncomfortable and confused the first days. Definitely cried in the shower. It was that awkward meet and greet with people for the first time that really kicked my ass. It was very summer camp-meets-freshman year of college-meets-what the hell am I doing living in Africa.
     But it's all good because after a few nights out everyone came out of their comfort zones and pretty much these people are amazing. Everyone brings a different perspective and attitude to the group and it's hard to believe I've only known them for two weeks. Which brings out the next theme of the blog: living accomodations.


(stay tuned! I only have 2 more minutes online and this is going to awkwardly cut me off).
(Also, not that brief of a synopsis but I warned you: see post #1).